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new domestic to the boards...
#1
alright so i tried that jap crap and even a euro car, but i finally gave in and got a proper car. :thumbup

just picked up a 95 Z28, auto,


i just bought it today so i haven't had a chance to drive it much, but this car already kicks more ass than my supra or GTI ever have. i plan on running it in some autoX events mostly, but i also want to make it a quick street car (mid-high 13's)....any ideas on some mods to start me off or some pointers?
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#2
the 4L60E will take a shit on you as soon as you start adding more power... since you have an LT1, convert it to an LT4... with the above mods... you will have a nice 400hp+ car for not a lot of effort.
Will call you on your BS.
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#3
LT4 package is useless. 13's are cakewalk for LT1's. First, make sure its running right and give it a TUNE UP. That means plugs and wires, if the opti is stock and has 70k+ on it, change it, there's no point holding yourself back (like I am doing) with a shit ignition. Mods, first things first, subframe connectors. Do coated longtube headers, uncoated create too much heat in the already packed engine bay and will destroy spark plug wires with the quickness, ask me how i know. Either a good Y pipe/catback combo, or true duals and an X pipe. Summit's universal x pipe kit bolts straight up to Hooker and Jet Hot Longtubes, and will probably work with Pacesetters. If you're going to drag (which you might as well do with an automatic Z28), get a stall. 3000 or so should give you room to grow. A stall and sticky tires will be the most noticable decrease in ET's you will see. Then get a good tune (MadZ28.com is what I have right now, although nothing is as good as a real Dyno Tune, a mail order tune is ok for a bolt on car, no need to go overboard until you start diving into the motor.), and go run 12's. Longtubes are a PROVEN 5mph in the 1/4 on LT1's. The stall will hack the ET to peices, along with the DR's. You should be fine on the stock 10 bolt with an automatic since it puts MUCH less stress on the rear when launching.

If you want to get serious, headwork and a nice healthy cam is where its at. A buddy of mine has a LE2 package from Lloyd Elliot (http://www.eportworks.com), and a GM847 cam. Untuned, he put down 380whp floating the valves at 6000 with the cam that peaks usually about 66-6700. After a dyno tune by Jeff at CAM (best LT1 tuner in the country hands down), he put down 411whp and 380wtq on his stock 135k mile shortblock, and stock LT1 casting heads.

Join CamaroZ28.com, and LS1tech.com, and read up on the LT1 sections. Despite what the LS1 boys and the mustang guys will tell you, the LT1 is a great motor to work with. Its easily moddable, and can make killer power NA. Its only downfall is the reverse cooling separates it from the SBC, so without machine work, SBC heads wont work, and the Opticrap sucks for the most part.
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#4
Mr. Bater Wrote:LT4 package is useless. 13's are cakewalk for LT1's. First, make sure its running right and give it a TUNE UP....

....If you want to get serious, headwork and a nice healthy cam is where its at. A buddy of mine has a LE2 package from Lloyd Elliot (http://www.eportworks.com), and a GM847 cam. Untuned, he put down 380whp floating the valves at 6000 with the cam that peaks usually about 66-6700. After a dyno tune by Jeff at CAM (best LT1 tuner in the country hands down), he put down 411whp and 380wtq on his stock 135k mile shortblock, and stock LT1 casting heads.

Confusedad4:

http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...search.asp

"These LT1-to-LT4 conversion kits bring the most out of your factory LT1 engine. The kits include LT4 cylinder heads with valves and springs, a red aluminum LT4 intake manifold, GM Performance Parts' hot cam with 1.6:1 ratio Bow Tie roller rockers, and all necessary gaskets. The result of all of these mods is 425+ proven horsepower! "
Will call you on your BS.
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#5
From what I have heard, the LT4 package may be cool, but you can get more power for less if you go aftermarket.
But who cares, LT1's aren't for modifying anyway...
2 tires, mounted and balanced... $160.40
Lifetime alignments... $99.99
Getting your car back from a Firestone post-alignment "road test" with rod knock... $4,543.42
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#6
Mr. Bater Wrote:Longtubes are a PROVEN 5mph in the 1/4 on LT1's. .
Links? :read:
2 tires, mounted and balanced... $160.40
Lifetime alignments... $99.99
Getting your car back from a Firestone post-alignment "road test" with rod knock... $4,543.42
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#7
Lemme find it.
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#8
91_Z28 Wrote:Confusedad4:

http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...search.asp

"These LT1-to-LT4 conversion kits bring the most out of your factory LT1 engine. The kits include LT4 cylinder heads with valves and springs, a red aluminum LT4 intake manifold, GM Performance Parts' hot cam with 1.6:1 ratio Bow Tie roller rockers, and all necessary gaskets. The result of all of these mods is 425+ proven horsepower! "

With a LT4 package, you'll put down about 330whp. With ported heads and a CC306, you'll put down about 380whp. You do the math. LT4 stuff is overrated unless you're porting the FUCK out of them and going big motor or boost, and then I'd look into SB2.2's before that.
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#9
Import Hater Wrote:Reading comprehension is just overrated isn't it Sean?

Why would he put drag radials, a 3000 stall TC, and an all top end cam when he said he mostly wants to do autocross?

Why the hell not? CURVES ARE FOR WOMEN, NOT RACING. You dont buy a slushbox 3700lb solid rear car to autox in. But thats just me. I still say drag that shit.
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#10
theres a few guys at the sac autox with a late 80's automagic corvette. they place high at the end of the season in bsp.
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#11
If he wants to autox it, i reccomend talking to Sam Strano. Get some Koni DA's front and rear, Strano sways, and some good springs. Adjustable PHB and LCA's, Subframe connectors are a must, and get a Torsen or Auburn rear for better torque biasing. I still reccomend a stall of at least 2500, and some 3.73 gears to have fun with.


Here is a forum that deal EXCLUSIVELY with F bodys for Road Racing and Autox applications, its a great site:

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#12
ummm i thought u said u got a proper car.......buy a ford.... :lame:
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#13
Space, you are quite the useless troll.


I'm with sean on this one, I can't see why you would want to autox a Camaro.
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#14
why not?
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#15
Space Ghost Wrote:ummm i thought u said u got a proper car.......buy a ford.... :lame:

Enjoy your 7 days off, you suck as a troll.
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#16
Newt5 Wrote:I can't see why you would want to autox a Camaro.

They said the same thing about the guy autoXing the Caddy.
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#17
A camaro would be fine to auto x, just not an automatic non 1LE camaro.
94 Firebird Formula - 13.5@104
05 Neon SRT4 - Bone stock for now...
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#18
<3 Wrote:They said the same thing about the guy autoXing the Caddy.
wait. thats funny, because just yesterday at the sac scca autox. there was a caddy there that was kicking ass in a modified class.
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