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FAQ - Brakes
What brake fluid are you running? Brand, DOT 3,4, blah. You know what I need to hear. Also, would stainless braided brake hoses increase pedal feel? I hope to get a set in the next few weeks. Thanks in advance.
Smacktalk brought to you by the letters O and G. Ban me, I dare you bitches.
DOT 5 is what most guys I know run in their road race cars, even though it is overkill for our small four banger Neons and Vw's. In a Mustang though, DOT 5 woul be the way to go as it will help considerably. Dot 5 has the highest temp rating, so boil over will be a problem of the past. SS brakes lines are also an excellent upgrade as they will increase pedal firmness tremendously while preventing the brake lines from bulging under pressure.

You also might want to look into better pads with a higher temp rating since those will resist fade much better than any stock pad. I think Poterfield RS4 pads are the best pads for occasional track use Mustangs. If you get really into it, brembo rotors and 99 Cobra calipers are they way to go Wink

"Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague longing for something salty" - Peter Egan
Thanks! I guess I could have told you what my set up is. I have already done the Cobra 4 wheel disc swap, and I run DOT 5 Valvoline Synthetic fluid. I was considering a new/different set of rotors, but I haven't exactly made up my mind on which way to go yet.
The only ones I've seen advertized were the Brembo and Powerslot. The only thing is that the Brembo kit has calipers and rotors, and costs like $3K!:eek: You fellas have any thoughts?
Smacktalk brought to you by the letters O and G. Ban me, I dare you bitches.
The reason I recommended the Porterfield pads is because I hang out on too many damn Mustang boards, and the guys there that road race use those pads exclusively if they are not running Brembo brakes. Ford also makes a DOT 5 brake fluid specifically for Mustangs and it works perfectly. I know on some cars SS lines don't make a difference, but again, everyone I've talked to that races their mustang agrees that SS lines firm up the pedal and are one of the best upgrades you can make. And no, I'm not arguing with you! I just spend too much time learning about these cars. Wink

Steeda- Brembo brakes are excellent, but if you don't race your car at a track nearly every weekend, they simply are not worth the money. I'd stay with the Cobra setup and go with Brembo rotors as they are excellent pieces. Also, if you are going to upgrade your brakes, be sure to add speed bleeders to make life easier for you in general Wink

"Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague longing for something salty" - Peter Egan
small thing I wrote for my website, feel free to add/edit/argue points:

We all know that brakes slow your car down (actually, its the tires, but we won't get into that here). Having good brakes at the track is a must, and very nice to have on the street. What do brakes do, more specifically, is change the energy of the car moving forward into heat. As you can imagine, braking from high speeds creates a lot of heat. Have you ever driven your car on the track? Or gone out for a run in the twisty's, and noticed your pedal going down to the floor and not braking well after a while? This is what's known as brake fade. This happens from the brake fluid boiling in your brake lines. You cannot compress the air as well as compressing fluid, so your pedal travel goes to the floor. How do we fight this? Using DOT5 or similar brake fluids with a high boiling point helps. DOT5 brake fluid is fully synthetic, so there is no water in the fluid, and it repels water. Motul 600 is recommended by RoadRace Engineering, and I trust them, and so should you. Using stainless steel brake lines will help firm up the pedal while the fluid isn't boiling, but when it is, they will act the same way as stock rubber lines.

Rotors are one of the most misunderstood parts of the braking system. Most people think bigger is better. This is untrue. While a big rotor behind a wheel that shows it looks very nice, it is usually hurting more than it is helping. You want to size your rotor as small as possible, without overheating. Why? Well, for a few reasons. The first is rotating mass. The bigger the rotor, the more weight the axles have to turn, causing slower acceleration. If you are using race pads, the rotors may be so big that they will not heat up your pads to the correct operating temperature. Also, with a smaller rotor, you can fit smaller wheels on your car, allowing less rotating mass. Notice how none of the real race cars use cross drilled rotors? This is because cross drilling is old technology, used on cars when brake pads released gasses when heated up. New pads do not let off gasses. Cross drilling will lead to stress cracks over time, so unless your rotors are huge and you need to save weight, don't cross drill your rotors. Slotting is helpful, it will 'slice' away at the pad, leaving a fresh surface every turn. This helps when your pads get too hot, as they glaze over.

Brake pads NEED to be the correct pad for your application. You do not want to run a race pad on the street. Racing pads need to be heated up to a certain temperature before they will start to grab. On the street, a semi-metallic pad will do nicely. Same thing goes for a weekend auto-x. If you are going to be running on a track for the weekend, it might be a good idea to swap over to some race pads at the track, but be sure to swap in your street pads before going home (assuming you drove to the track).

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